Retinoids: Retinol vs Retinal vs Retinoic Acid vs..?

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It’s Q&A Day at 10almonds!

Have a question or a request? We love to hear from you!

In cases where we’ve already covered something, we might link to what we wrote before, but will always be happy to revisit any of our topics again in the future too—there’s always more to say!

As ever: if the question/request can be answered briefly, we’ll do it here in our Q&A Thursday edition. If not, we’ll make a main feature of it shortly afterwards!

So, no question/request too big or small 😎

❝I’m confused about retinol, retinal, retinoin, retinoids, etc, and of course every product claims to be the best, what’s the actual science on it?❞

Before we get into these skincare products, let’s first note that for most people, what’s best for the skin is good sleep and hydration, a plants-centric whole foods diet, and good stress management:

See for example: Of Brains And Breakouts: The Brain Skin Doctor

However, the world of potions and lotions can be an alluring one, and there is some merit there too. So, in a nutshell:

  • Retinoids are the overall class of chemicals, and not a specific type
    • Retinoic acid is the strongest form of this chemical and is prescription-controlled in most places
      • Retinoin” is probably tretinoin (all-trans retinoic acid) with the “t” having falling off; we can only find it being used as a product name, not an actual substance
    • Retinal, when it’s not an adjective referring to the retina (the part of the eye that receives refocussed light) and is instead a noun, is a less potent retinoid than the prescription-only kinds, but still stronger than retinol
    • Retinol is a much less potent form, and is the most widely found in skincare products

All of them work the same way; it is only how serious they are about it that differs.

The mechanism of action is that they speed up the turnover (shedding cycle) of skin, so that cells are replaced sooner. As with any non-cancerous human tissue, this means that the tissue itself (in this case, your skin) will be biologically younger than if it had been replaced later.

The downside, of course, of this is that—while trying to make your skin healthier and more beautiful—the first thing that will happen is skin shedding. Depending on the retinoid type, dose, and the health of your skin to start with, this may mean anything from needing to exfoliate in the morning, to having to go to hospital with what looks like the world’s worst sunburn. For this reason, it is recommended to start with weaker products and lower doses, and work up carefully.

A note on doses: the recommended doses for these products are always truly tiny, like “use a pea-sized amount of this 0.05% serum on your face”. Take them seriously until you’re absolutely sure from experience that your skin can handle more.

Also, a tip: wear gloves when you apply any of the above products. This is because your fingers are also covered in skin, and if you don’t use gloves, then half the product that you intended for your face will be absorbed into your fingers instead.

You can learn more about the science of retinoids here, in our article about tretinoin, the usually prescription-only form of retinoic acid:

Tretinoin: Undo The Sun’s Damage To Your Skin

Want to try some?

We don’t sell it, but here for your convenience is an example product of retinal (stronger than retinol) on Amazon 😎

Take care!

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  • The Sweet Truth About Diabetes

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    There’s A Lot Of Confusion About Diabetes!

    For those readers who are not diabetic, nor have a loved one who is diabetic, nor any other pressing reason to know these things, first a quick 101 rundown of some things to understand the rest of today’s main feature:

    • Blood sugar levels: how much sugar is in the blood, measured in mg/dL or mmol/L
    • Hyperglycemia or “hyper” for short: too much sugar in the blood
    • Hypoglycemia or “hypo” for short: too little sugar in the blood
    • Insulin: a hormone that acts as a gatekeeper to allow sugar to pass, or not pass, into various parts of the body
    • Type 1 diabetes (sometimes capitalized, and/or abbreviated to “T1D”) is an autoimmune disorder that prevents the pancreas from being able to supply the body with insulin. This means that taking insulin consistently is necessary for life.
    • Type 2 diabetes is a matter of insulin resistance. The pancreas produces plenty of insulin, but the body has become desensitized to it, so it doesn’t work properly. Taking extra insulin may sometimes be necessary, but for many people, it can be controlled by means of a careful diet and other lifestyle factors.

    With that in mind, on to some very popular myths…

    Diabetes is caused by having too much sugar

    While sugar is not exactly a health food, it’s not the villain of this story either.

    • Type 1 diabetes has a genetic basis, triggered by epigenetic factors unrelated to sugar.
    • Type 2 diabetes comes from a cluster of risk factors which, together, can cause a person to go through pre-diabetes and acquire type 2 diabetes.
      • Those risk factors include:
        • A genetic predisposition
        • A large waist circumference
          • (this is more relevant than BMI or body fat percentage)
        • High blood pressure
        • A sedentary lifestyle
        • Age (the risk starts rising at 35, rises sharply at 45, and continues upwards with increasing age)

    Read more: Risk Factors for Type 2 Diabetes

    Diabetics can’t have sugar

    While it’s true that diabetics must be careful about sugar (and carbs in general), it’s not to say that they can’t have them… just: be mindful and intentional about it.

    • Type 1 diabetics will need to carb-count in order to take the appropriate insulin bolus. Otherwise, too little insulin will result in hyperglycemia, or too much insulin will result in hypoglycemia.
    • Type 2 diabetics will often be able to manage their blood sugar levels with diet alone, and slow-release carbs will make this easier.

    In either case, having quick release sugars will increase blood sugar levels (what a surprise), and sometimes (such as when experiencing a hypo), that’s what’s needed.

    Also, when it comes to sugar, a word on fruit:

    Not all fruits are equal, and some fruits can help maintain stable blood sugar levels! Read all about it:

    Fruit Intake to Prevent and Control Hypertension and Diabetes

    Artificial sweeteners are must-haves for diabetics

    Whereas sugar is a known quantity to the careful diabetic, some artificial sweeteners can impact insulin sensitivity, causing blood sugars to behave in unexpected ways. See for example:

    The Impact of Artificial Sweeteners on Body Weight Control and Glucose Homeostasis

    If a diabetic person is hyper, they should exercise to bring their blood sugar levels down

    Be careful with this!

    • In the case of type 2 diabetes, it may (or may not) help, as the extra sugar may be used up.
    • Type 1 diabetes, however, has a crucial difference. Because the pancreas isn’t making insulin, a hyper (above a certain level, anyway) means more insulin is needed. Exercising could do more harm than good, as unlike in type 2 diabetes, the body has no way to use that extra sugar, without the insulin to facilitate it. Exercising will just pump the syrupy hyperglycemic blood around the body, potentially causing damage as it goes (all without actually being able to use it).

    There are other ways this can be managed that are outside of the scope of this newsletter, but “be careful” is rarely a bad approach.

    Read more, from the American Diabetes Association:

    Exercise & Type 1 Diabetes

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  • The Art of Being Unflappable (Tricks For Daily Life)

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    The Art of Being Unflappable

    From Stoicism to CBT, thinkers through the ages have sought the unflappable life.

    Today, in true 10almonds fashion, we’re going to distil it down to some concentrated essentials that we can all apply in our daily lives:

    Most Common/Impactful Cognitive Distortions To Catch (And Thus Avoid)

    These are like the rhetorical fallacies with which you might be familiar (ad hominem, no true Scotsman, begging the question, tu quoque, straw man, etc), but are about what goes on between your own ears, pertaining to your own life.

    If we learn about them and how to recognize them, however, we can catch them before they sabotage us, and remain “unflappable” in situations that could otherwise turn disastrous.

    Let’s take a look at a few:

    Catastrophizing / Crystal Ball

    • Distortion: not just blowing something out of proportion, but taking an idea and running with it to its worst possible conclusion. For example, we cook one meal that’s a “miss” and conclude we are a terrible cook, and in fact for this reason a terrible housewife/mother/friend/etc, and for this reason everyone will probably abandon us and would be right to do so
    • Reality: by tomorrow, you’ll probably be the only one who even remembers it happened

    Mind Reading

    • Distortion: attributing motivations that may or may not be there, and making assumptions about other people’s thoughts/feelings. An example is the joke about two partners’ diary entries; one is long and full of feelings about how the other is surely dissatisfied in their marriage, has been acting “off” with them all day, is closed and distant, probably wants to divorce, may be having an affair and is wondering which way to jump, and/or is just wondering how to break the news—the other partner’s diary entry is short, and reads “motorcycle won’t start; can’t figure out why”
    • Reality: sometimes, asking open questions is better than guessing, and much better than assuming!

    All-or-Nothing Thinking / Disqualifying the Positive / Magnifying the Negative

    • Distortion: having a negative bias that not only finds a cloud in every silver lining, but stretches it out so that it’s all that we can see. In a relationship, this might mean that one argument makes us feel like our relationship is nothing but strife. In life in general, it may lead us to feel like we are “naturally unlucky”.
    • Reality: those negative things wouldn’t even register as negative to us if there weren’t a commensurate positive we’ve experienced to hold them in contrast against. So, find and remember that positive too.

    For brevity, we put a spotlight on (and in some cases, clumped together) the ones we think have the most bang-for-buck to know about, but there are many more.

    So for the curious, here’s some further reading:

    Psychology Today: 50 Common Cognitive Distortions

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  • Beating Toxic Positivity

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    How To Get Your Brain On A More Positive Track (Without Toxic Positivity)

    There have been many studies done regards optimism and health, and they generally come to the same conclusion: optimism is simply good for the health.

    Here’s an example we’ve mentioned before, but it’s a good introduction to today’s main feature. It’s a longitudinal study, and it followed 121,700 women (what a sample size!) for eight years. It controlled for all kinds of other lifestyle factors (especially smoking, drinking, diet, and exercise habits, as well as pre-existing medical conditions), so this wasn’t a case of “people who are healthy are more optimistic as results. And, in the researchers’ own words…

    ❝We found strong and statistically significant associations of increasing levels of optimism with decreasing risks of mortality, including mortality due each major cause of death, such as cancer, heart disease, stroke, respiratory disease, and infection. Importantly, findings were maintained after close control for potential confounding factors, including sociodemographic characteristics and depression❞

    Read: Optimism and Cause-Specific Mortality: A Prospective Cohort Study

    And yet, toxic positivity can cause as many problems as it tries to fix.

    What is toxic positivity?

    • Toxic positivity is the well-meaning friend who says “I’m sure it’ll be ok” when you know full well it definitely will not.
    • Toxic positivity is the allegorical frog-in-a-pan saying that the temperature rises due to climate change are gradual, so they’re nothing to worry about
    • Toxic positivity is thinking that “good vibes” will outperform chemotherapy

    Sometimes, a dose of realism is needed. So, can we do that and maintain a positive attitude?

    The answer is: somewhat, yes! But first, a quick check-in:

    ❝I’m not a pessimist; I’m a realist!❞

    ~ every pessimist ever

    To believe self-reports, the world is divided between optimists and realists. But how does your outlook measure up, really?

    While like most free online tests, this is offered “as-is” with the usual caveats about not being a clinical diagnostic tool, this one actually has a fair amount of scientific weight behind it:

    ❝Empirical testing has indicated the validity of the Optimism Pessimism Instrument as published in the scientific journal Current Psychology: Research and Reviews.

    The IDRlabs Optimism/Pessimism Test (IDR-OPT) was developed by IDRlabs. The IDR-OPT is based on the Optimism/Pessimism Instrument (OPI) developed by Dr. William Dember, Dr. Stephanie Martin, Dr. Mary Hummer, Dr. Steven Howe, and Dr. Richard Melton, at the University of Cincinnati.❞

    Take This Short (1–2 mins) Test

    How did you score? And what could you do to improve on that score?

    First, it’s said that with a big enough “why”, one can overcome any “how”. So…

    An attitude of gratitude

    We know, we know, it’s very Oprah Winfrey. But also, it works. Take the time, ideally daily, to quickly list 3–5 things for which you feel grateful. Great or small, it can be anything from your spouse to your cup of coffee, provided you feel fortunate to have it.

    How this works: our brains easily get stuck in loops, so it can help to nudge them into a more positive loop.

    What about when we are treated unfairly? Are we supposed to be grateful?

    Sometimes, our less positive emotions are necessary, to protect us and/or those around us, and to provide a motivational force. We can still maintain a positive attitude by noting the bad thing and some good, but watch out! Notice the difference:

    • “How dare they take our healthcare away, but at least I’m not sick right now” (lasting impression: no action required)
    • “At least I’m not sick right now, but how dare they take our healthcare away!” (lasting impression: action required)

    It’s a well-known idea in neurolinguistic programming, that “but” negates whatever goes before it (think of “I’m sorry but”, or “I’m not racist but”, etc), so use it consciously and wisely, or else simply use “and” instead.

    Cognitive reframing: problem, or opportunity?

    Most problems can be opportunities, even if the problems themselves genuinely suck and are not intrinsically positive. A way of leveraging this can be replacing “I have to…” with “I get to…”.

    This not only can reframe problems as opportunities, but also calls back to the gratitude idea.

    • Instead of “I have to get my mammogram / prostate exam” (not generally considered fun activities), “I get to have the peace of mind of being free from cancer / I get to have the forewarning that will keep me safe”.
    • Instead of “I have to go to work”, “I get to go to work” (many wish they were in your shoes!)
    • Instead of “I have to rest”, “I get to rest”

    When things are truly not great

    Whether due to internal or external factors, whether you can control something or not, sometimes things are truly not great. The trick here is that in most contexts, one can replace negative talk, with verbally positive talk, no matter how dripping with scathing irony. You’ll still get to express the idea you wanted, but your brain will feel more positive and you’ll be in a positive loop rather than a negative one.

    This, by the way, is the inverse of talking to a dog with a tone of voice that is completely the opposite of the meaning of the words. Whereas the dog will interpret the tone only, your brain will interpret the words only.

    • You just spilled your drink over yourself at a social function? “Aren’t I the very model of grace and charm?”
    • You made a costly mistake in your business dealings? “I am such a genius”
    • You just got a diagnosis of a terrible disease? “Well, this is fabulous”

    None of these things involve burying your head in the sand, in the manner of toxic positivity. You’ll still learn from your business mistake and correct it as best you can, or take appropriate action regards the disease, for example.

    You’ll just feel better while you do it, and not get caught into a negative spiral that ruins your day, or even your next few months.

    Sympathetic/Somatic Therapy:

    Lastly, an easy one, leveraging the body’s tendency to get in sync with things around us:

    For when you do just need a mood change, have an uplifting playlist available at the touch of a button. It’s hard to be consumed with counterproductive feelings to the tune of “Walking on Sunshine”!

    Bonus tip: consider having the playlist start with something that is lyrically negative while musically upbeat. That way, your brain won’t resist it as antithetical to your mood, and by the second track, you’ll already be on your way to a better mood.

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Related Posts

  • Three Daily Servings of Beans?
  • Which B Vitamins? It Makes A Difference

    10almonds is reader-supported. We may, at no cost to you, receive a portion of sales if you purchase a product through a link in this article.

    Everyone knows “B vitamins are for energy!” and that is definitely a theme, but there’s a lot more to it than that, and in some cases, there are big mistakes that people make when it comes to supplementing their diet.

    First, let’s do a quick overview of what each of the B vitamins do, by number, and putting names to them:

    B1 (Thiamine)

    • Function: helps convert carbohydrates into energy, supports nerve function
    • Forms: thiamine hydrochloride, thiamine mononitrate, benfotiamine (fat-soluble form)
    • Example foods: lentils, sunflower seeds

    B2 (Riboflavin)

    • Function: supports energy production, skin health, and eye function, turns your pee fluorescent yellow (the latter is really only if you consume exciting amounts of it; this will usually occur from supplementation, not from normal diet)
    • Forms: riboflavin, riboflavin-5’-phosphate
    • Example foods: almonds, mushrooms

    B3 (Niacin)

    • Function: aids metabolism, supports skin, nerves, and cholesterol levels
    • Forms: niacin (nicotinic acid), niacinamide (nicotinamide), inositol hexanicotinate (flush-free niacin)
    • Example foods: whole grains, peanuts (literally the best nut for this)

    B5 (Pantothenic Acid)

    • Function: essential for fatty acid metabolism and hormone production
    • Forms: pantothenic acid, calcium pantothenate, panthenol (alcohol form!)
    • Example foods: it’s in pretty much everything (hence the name); it’s almost impossible to be deficient in this vitamin unless you are literally starving

    B6 (Pyridoxine)

    • Function: needed for red blood cell production, supports brain function, as well as specifically being a part of neurotransmitter production (including dopamine and serotonin, despite them being made in different places—the brain and the gut, respectively),
    • Forms: pyridoxine hydrochloride, pyridoxal-5’-phosphate (active form)
    • Example foods: bananas, potatoes

    B7 (Biotin)

    • Function: helps with fatty acid synthesis, skin, hair, and nail health
    • Forms: d-biotin, biotinylated compounds of various kinds
    • Example foods: fava beans, walnuts

    B9 (Folate/Folic Acid)

    • Function: crucial for DNA synthesis, cell division, and fetal development
    • Forms: folic acid, folinic acid, 5-methyltetrahydrofolate (5-MTHF, active form)
    • Example foods: chickpeas, spinach ← we only mentioned one leafy green here for fairness, but leafy greens in general are great sources of vitamin B9, hence the name, from the Latin “folium”, meaning leaf.

    B12 (Cobalamin)

    • Function: supports red blood cell formation, nerve function, and DNA synthesis
    • Forms: cyanocobalamin, methylcobalamin (active), hydroxocobalamin (active), adenosylcobalamin (active)
    • Example foods: nutritional yeast, nori

    You may be wondering: what about vitamins B4, B8, B10, and B11? Those are now vacant spots, that once contained things that are no longer considered vitamins.

    Three Critical Vitamin B Mistakes That May Be Sabotaging Your Health

    Some mistakes that people make include:

    Not supplementing when necessary

    This occurs most often after midlife, especially in women, and the most common deficiencies are B1, B9, and B12.

    See also: These Signs Often Mean These Nutrient Deficiencies (Do You Have Any?)

    While it’s tempting to think “if I have a good balanced diet, I won’t need…” but the fact is sometimes our diet isn’t as nutrient dense as we hope—often through no fault of our own! But many modern farming methods prioritize yield over nutritional value, and that can result in plants and animals that do not have the nutritional qualities they “should”.

    We wrote about this a while back, weighing up the “supplementation vs diet alone” dilemma:

    Does Our Diet Need A Little Help? ← this also has a very useful chart of which vitamins people usually get too little or too much of. Note however that the statement of marginally excessive folate is slightly misleading, as the data pool contains men and women aged 18–65, while B9 is mostly needed more by women, and especially around childbirth or menopause, so B9 is actually a very common deficiency, but here it’s being balanced out lots of men getting too much (because every multivitamin has it).

    Supplementing to excess

    Most B vitamins have a very high maximum tolerable dose, because (with the exception of where we marked otherwise) they are water-soluble, which means that if you take more than you need, you’ll just pee it out later. Hence the famous fluorescence, for example.

    However, the fat soluble form of vitamin B1 is harder to get in and harder to get out.

    As for the others, problems usually only occur if you take enough to cause toxicity, faster than you pee it out. In other words, go easy on those Berocca drinks!

    Nevertheless, there are other problems that can arise:

    Vitamin B6 is essential—but too much can be toxic. Here’s what to know to stay safe ← tl;dr: there are issues with it causing peripheral neuropathy at doses over 10mg (the safe dose is disputed, so we’re mentioning the lowest safe dose here, but you can read about the others in the article)

    Getting forms that don’t work so well

    Those different forms we listed? They are not all created equal! For example:

    • Folic acid is cheap; unfortunately, it’s not absorbed or used well
    • Cyanocobalamin is cheap; unfortunately, it’s not absorbed or used well

    Let us quote a recent book review of ours:

    ❝Rather, the most common forms of vitamins B9 and B12 provided in supplements are folic acid and cyanocobalamin, respectively, which as he demonstrates with extensive research to back up his claims, cannot be easily absorbed or used especially well.

    About those vitamers: a vitamer is simply a form of a vitamin—most vitamins we need can arrive in a variety of forms. In the case of vitamins B9 and B12, he advocates for ditching vitamers folic acid and cyanocobalamin, cheap as they are, and springing for bioactive vitamers L-methylfolate, methylcobalamin, and adenosylcobalamin.

    He also discusses (again, just as well-evidenced as the above things) why we might struggle to get enough from our diet after a certain age. For example, if trying to get these vitamins from meat, 50% of people over 50 cannot manufacture enough stomach acid to break down that protein to release the vitamins.

    And as for methyl-B12 vitamers, you might expect you can get those from meat, and technically you can, but they don’t occur in all animals, just in one kind of animal. Specifically, the kind that has the largest brain-to-body ratio. However, eating the meat of this animal can result in protein folding errors in general and Creutzfeldt–Jakob disease in particular, so the author does not recommend eating humans, however nutritionally convenient that would be.

    All this means that supplementation after a certain age really can be a sensible way to do it—but do it wisely, and pick the right vitamers.❞

    You can read that review in full here: Your Vitamins are Obsolete: The Vitamer Revolution – by Dr. Sheldon Zablow

    Want to try those latter two?

    We don’t sell them, but here for your convenience are example products on Amazon:

    L-methylfolate (active form of vitamin B9)

    Methylcobalamin, adenosylcobalamin, & hydroxocobalamin (active forms of vitamin B12)

    Take care!

    Don’t Forget…

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    Learn to Age Gracefully

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  • Chaat Masala Spiced Potato Salad With Beans

    10almonds is reader-supported. We may, at no cost to you, receive a portion of sales if you purchase a product through a link in this article.

    This is an especially gut-healthy dish; the cooked-and-cooled potatoes are not rich with resistant starches (that’s good), the beans bring protein (as well as more fiber and micronutrients), and many of the spices bring their own benefits. A flavorful addition to your table!

    You will need

    • 1 lb new potatoes, boiled or steamed, with skin on, quartered, cooled ← this is a bit of a “mini recipe”, but we expect you can handle it
    • 5 oz blanched broad beans
    • 2 oz sun-dried tomatoes, chopped
    • ¼ bulb garlic, crushed
    • 1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
    • 2 tsp amchoor
    • 2 tsp ground cumin
    • 2 tsp ground coriander
    • 1 tsp ground ginger
    • 1 tsp ground asafoetida
    • 1 tsp black pepper, coarse ground
    • 1 tsp red chili powder
    • 1 tsp ground turmeric
    • ½ tsp MSG or 1 tsp low-sodium salt
    • Juice of ½ lemon

    And then…

    • To garnish: finely chopped cilantro, or if you have the “cilantro tastes like soap” gene, then substitute with parsley
    • To serve: a nice chutney; you can use our Spiced Fruit & Nut Chutney recipe

    Method

    (we suggest you read everything at least once before doing anything)

    1) Mix all the ingredients from the main section, ensuring an even distribution on the spices.

    2) Add the garnish, and serve with the chutney. That’s it. There was more work in the prep (and potentially, finding all the ingredients) today.

    Enjoy!

    Want to learn more?

    For those interested in some of the science of what we have going on today:

    Take care!

    Don’t Forget…

    Did you arrive here from our newsletter? Don’t forget to return to the email to continue learning!

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  • Butternut Squash vs Pumpkin – Which is Healthier?

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    Our Verdict

    When comparing butternut squash to pumpkin, we picked the butternut squash.

    Why?

    Both are great! But the butternut squash manages a moderate win in most categories.

    In terms of macros, butternut squash has more of everything except water. Most notably, it has more protein and more fiber. Yes, more carbs too, but the fiber content means that it also has the lower glycemic index, by quite a bit.

    When it comes to vitamins, pumpkin does have a little more of vitamin B1 and a lot more of vitamin E, while butternut squash has more of vitamins B3, B5, B9, C, K, and choline. They’re about equal in the other vitamins they both contain. A fair win for butternut squash.

    In the category of minerals, butternut squash has more calcium, magnesium, manganese, and selenium, while pumpkin has more copper, iron, and phosphorus. They’re about equal in potassium and zinc. A marginal win for butternut squash.

    Adding up the strong win, the fair win, and the marginal win, makes for an easy overall win for butternut squash!

    Want to learn more?

    You might like to read:

    Superfood-Stuffed Squash Recipe

    Take care!

    Don’t Forget…

    Did you arrive here from our newsletter? Don’t forget to return to the email to continue learning!

    Learn to Age Gracefully

    Join the 98k+ American women taking control of their health & aging with our 100% free (and fun!) daily emails: