The “Barrier-First” Way to Layer Skincare in Winter

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Dr. Shereene Idris, dermatologist, explains:

Layer up

We’re not sure why she called this the “barrier-first” way, as the barrier does appear to be last (maybe she meant it in the “it’s most important” way, or maybe she was referring to prioritizing the skin barrier; either are possible with the things she said, and neither are confirmed as being the reason).

In any case, the advice itself is sound:

Her advice is to think of skincare like winter clothing—start with the thinnest layers and build up only as needed, rather than using every possible layer by default.

Know the five hydration categories: lightweight mists, hydrating essences or toners, serums, moisturizers, and rich creams or occlusives, with the understanding that you do not necessarily need a product from every category (and in fact, you almost certainly don’t).

With that in mind, pick and mix from the following as appropriate, and/but in this order:

  1. Hydrating mist: adds surface water but must always be sealed with subsequent layers, otherwise evaporation can worsen dryness—similar to repeatedly licking dry lips.
  2. Hydrating essence or toner: choose products explicitly formulated to hydrate rather than exfoliate, and apply with light pressure to help cushion skin and improve receptivity to treatments.
  3. Serum: a hydrating serum can be used alone, or you can choose a targeted treatment serum that also contains humectants, allowing hydration and correction to happen simultaneously.
  4. Moisturizer: supports your skin barrier and comfort, with lighter options often working under sunscreen or makeup in the morning and richer textures becoming more appropriate as winter dryness increases.
  5. Rich cream or occlusive: seals everything in overnight to reduce water loss, with zinc-based options offering additional anti-inflammatory or barrier-support benefits when skin is irritated.

It’s also worth noting that your skin type and environment determine how many steps you need, and routines should ebb and flow with climate changes rather than remain rigid.

For more on all of this, enjoy:

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Want to learn more?

You might also like:

Do We Need Sunscreen In Winter, Really?

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  • A Therapeutic Journey – by Alain de Botton

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    We’ve often featured The School of Life’s videos here on 10almonds, and most of those are written by (and often voiced by) Alain de Botton.

    This book lays out the case for mental health being also just health, that no person is perfectly healthy all the time, and sometimes we all need a little help. While he does suggest seeking help from reliable outside sources, he also tells a lot about how we can improve things for ourselves along the way, whether by what we can control in our environment, or just what’s between our ears.

    In the category of limitations, the book is written with the assumption that you are in a position to have access to a therapist of your choice, and in a sufficiently safe and stable life situation that there is a limit to how bad things can get.

    The style is… Alain de Botton’s usual style. Well-written, clear, decisive, instructive, compassionate, insightful, thought-provoking.

    Bottom line: this isn’t a book for absolutely everyone, but if your problems are moderate and your resources are comfortable, then this book has a lot of insights that can make your life more easy-going and joyful, without dropping the seriousness when appropriate.

    Click here to check out A Therapeutic Journey, and perhaps begin one of your own!

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  • Treating Knee Arthritis Without Surgery

    10almonds is reader-supported. We may, at no cost to you, receive a portion of sales if you purchase a product through a link in this article.

    There are a lot of possible ways, and some have rather more evidence than others:

    Here’s what works

    Let’s start at the top:

    • Exercise and physiotherapy: the strongest evidence overall, as strengthening your muscles around the knee reduces pain and improves function more reliably than any medication.
      • In the category of exercise, it’s important to keep moving but avoid or adjust activities that significantly worsen your knee pain to reduce joint stress.
    • Weight loss: one of the most powerful interventions if applicable, with even modest loss significantly reducing joint load and pain, especially when using stairs, where forces are greatly increased.
    • NSAIDs (over-the-counter or prescription): among the most effective medications for arthritic pain relief, but limited by side effects with long-term use.
    • Injections (corticosteroids): effective for short-term relief during flare-ups, though benefits typically fade over weeks to a few months.
    • Braces and orthotics: moderately effective, especially if your arthritis affects a specific compartment of your knee.
    • Topical treatments: creams or gels (anti-inflammatories, anesthetics, or CBD) for localized relief with fewer systemic effects, though generally less powerful than oral medications.
    • Diet changes: supportive rather than primary treatment, but can help reduce inflammation and contribute to weight loss.
    • Acetaminophen: safer for the kidneys, but less effective than NSAIDs for most people with knee arthritis, as well as being hepatotoxic (poisons your liver) if overused.
    • Hyaluronic acid injections: mixed evidence, with some people benefiting but overall effects being modest and inconsistent.

    Some other things discussed that don’t fit well into a ranking from best to worst:

    • They made the strange choice to lump “magnets, copper, or red light therapy” together as one item having “weak evidence though placebo might help”, when one of those 3 things is not like the others!
      • Red light therapy is very well-evidenced for helping a good number of health things; it’s simply that arthritis isn’t one of them, and it’s a bit strange that they even brought it up, as it’s not a health claim we’ve seen made for it in the wild. It would be like taking time in the video to say that soap won’t help against arthritis—it’s technically a true statement, but why mention it at all?
    • They did a similar thing with supplements, saying “benefits vary and evidence is mixed”, but it rather makes a difference which supplement! So, in the “learn more” section below, we’ve linked an article that talks about 5 supplements that do have good evidence vs arthritis.

    For the video itself meanwhile, enjoy:

    Click Here If The Embedded Video Doesn’t Load Automatically!

    Want to learn more?

    You might also like:

    Five Supplements That Actually Work Vs Arthritis

    Take care!

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  • The Alcohol Experiment – by Annie Grace

    10almonds is reader-supported. We may, at no cost to you, receive a portion of sales if you purchase a product through a link in this article.

    We previously reviewed this author’s “This Naked Mind”, which explored the psychological and sociological aspects of alcohol addiction, or rather, how such factors funnel us to drinking in the first place.

    This time, it’s more about the practical side of things, though there’s plenty of science here too; it just not the emphasis. Instead, the focus is on understanding what has been going wrong, and fixing it, with tools that are presented one at a time and added to the reader’s toolbox as we go.

    You may be wondering: does this mean you need to be committed to stopping drinking? And the answer is no, except for these 30 days. It’s written for people who are of two minds about alcohol; who want to drink less but also feel deprived or upset if you abstain, or people who drink mostly out of habit or boredom, or to self-medicate against stress, for example.

    For those who like to be guided through things step-by-step, that’s what the author offers here, with a chapter and journal prompt for each day of the 30-day challenge.

    Bottom line: if the above describes you or a loved one, then this book can help.

    Click here to check out The Alcohol Experiment, and find your way forwards!

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  • Infections Here, Infections There…

    10almonds is reader-supported. We may, at no cost to you, receive a portion of sales if you purchase a product through a link in this article.

    This week in health news, let’s take a look at infections outside and in, and how to walk away from it all (in a good way):

    The bird that flu away

    This one cannot be described as good news. Basically, bird flu is now already epidemic amongst cows in the US, with 845 herds (not 845 cows; 845 herds) testing positive across 16 states. The US Department of Agriculture earlier this month announced a federal order to test milk nationwide. Researchers welcomed the news, but said it should have happened months ago—before the virus was so entrenched. It currently has a fatality rate of 2–5% in cows; we don’t have enough data to reasonably talk about its fatality rate in humans—yet.

    ❝It’s disheartening to see so many of the same failures that emerged during the COVID-19 crisis re-emerge❞

    ~ Tom Bollyky, director of the Global Health Program at the Council on Foreign Relations

    Read in full: How America lost control of the bird flu, setting the stage for another pandemic

    Related: Cows’ Milk, Bird Flu, & You

    Alzheimer’s from the gut upwards

    Alzheimer’s is generally thought of as being a purely brain thing, but there’s a link between a [specific] chronic gut infection, and the development of Alzheimer’s disease. This infection is called human cytomegalovirus, or HCMV for short, and usually we’ve all been exposed to it by young adulthood. However, for some people, it lingers in an active state in the gut, wherefrom it may travel to the brain via the vagus nerve “gut-brain highway”. And once there, well, you can guess the rest:

    Read in full: The surprising role of gut infection in Alzheimer’s disease

    Related: How To Reduce Your Alzheimer’s Risk

    Walking back to happiness

    Analyzing data from 96,138 adults around the world, showed that more steps meant less depression for participants.

    You may be thinking “well yes, depressed people walk less”, but more specifically, increases in activity showed increases in anti-depressive benefits, with even small incremental increases showing correspondingly incremental benefits. Specifically, each additional 1,000 steps per day corresponded to a 9% reduction in depression:

    Read in full: Higher daily step counts associated with fewer depressive symptoms

    Related: Walking… Better.

    Take care!

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  • What is black sesame? Is it really the new matcha? An expert explains

    10almonds is reader-supported. We may, at no cost to you, receive a portion of sales if you purchase a product through a link in this article.

    Black sesame is the latest plant-based product to go viral, with its appealing colour and nutty taste.

    Social media is full of claims these dark sesame seeds are better for you than the white ones. They’re said to be better at reducing your blood sugar levels, risk of heart disease, and even reversing grey hair.

    But is black sesame really the new matcha? You might remember this green tea was another plant-based, viral sensation with potential health benefits.

    Maria Korneeva/Getty

    What is black sesame? What’s in it?

    Sesame seeds grow in white, yellow and black varieties. They’ve been used for centuries in traditional Asian cuisine.

    Today, they’re used in both savoury and sweet dishes, and are a good source of protein. Due to sesame’s high fat content (about 50–64%, see table below) it is also valued for its oil.

    But there are differences between black and white sesame in some key nutrients.

    Black sesame has higher levels of fat, protein and carbohydrate, but is also higher in energy (kilojoules). Vitamin and mineral levels are also generally higher in black sesame.

    Sesame seeds are clearly highly nutritious products, but the amounts of nutrients in the table are for 100 grams, which is about two-thirds of a metric cup. Most of us would find it hard to eat this every day.

    Typically sesame seeds are eaten as a garnish for stir-frys, curries and bread. In some cultures they are used more widely as a major ingredient in discretionary foods that also contain sugar and fat – such as halva, biscuits, tahini paste and sesame seed bars.

    Sesame seeds also contain anti-nutrients. These are natural compounds, such as oxalic acid and phytic acid. These bind to minerals (iron, calcium and zinc) and reduce how much the body can absorb and use.

    For most of us, eating foods in normal quantities that contain oxalate and phytic acid is not a concern. But if you have a known deficiency, increasing your intake of sesame seeds is not a good idea. If this applies to you, it is worth discussing with an accredited practising dietitian.

    What about antioxidants?

    Free radicals are formed naturally as a byproduct of all our usual bodily processes such as breathing and moving, as well as from UV (ultraviolet) light exposure, smoking, air pollutants and industrial chemicals. These can damage our proteins, cell membranes and DNA.

    Sesame seeds contain antioxidants, chemicals that “mop up” these free radicals so they cannot cause damage.

    One study found higher levels of phenols (a type of antioxidant) in black sesame seeds compared to white ones.

    Black sesame also contains higher levels of lignans, an important group of phenols, than white sesame.

    Cell and animal studies have looked at sesamin, the main type of lignan. These demonstrate its antioxidant properties, as well as cholesterol-lowering, blood pressure-reducing and anti-tumour effects.

    But higher antioxidant levels don’t always automatically translate into proven health benefits.

    Is black sesame healthy?

    BMI, blood pressure and cholesterol

    A systematic review, which included the results of six studies with a total of 465 participants, looked into the health benefits of sesame. This included any type of sesame as either a seed, oil or capsule.

    The authors reported a statistically significant decrease in BMI (body-mass index), blood pressure and cholesterol. Sesame doses were 0.06–35g/day over four to eight weeks. But not all these studies compared it to a placebo, were double-blinded (when neither participants nor researchers know who is receiving a particular treatment or placebo) and in some of the included studies medications were still being used.

    Because of this the authors said the evidence was of low quality, and so could not make any health recommendations.

    Only one study in the review looked at black sesame seed specifically. This looked at the effect of taking 2.52g a day as capsules compared with a placebo for four weeks. It showed a drop in systolic blood pressure (the top number in your blood pressure reading) from about 129 mmHg (a measure of blood pressure) to about 121 mmHg in people with prehypertension (blood pressure slightly higher than normal).

    Grey hair

    I could find no scientific studies that have looked at black sesame seeds and hair colour.

    Similarly there is no current evidence any specific food or supplement can reverse grey hair.

    Any risks?

    Yes, about 0.1–0.9% of the population around the world have a sesame allergy, a rate that appears to be rising.

    Like all food allergies, the symptoms can be mild to severe. An anaphylactic response requires emergency medical treatment.

    So what should I do?

    The rise of black sesame does present a new ingredient you can enjoy in your cooking. If it doesn’t appeal, regular sesame seeds are also an option.

    Given the small amounts we typically eat, it won’t make an overall difference to your health if you prefer black or white sesame seeds.

    And as for black sesame to reverse grey hair, don’t count on it.

    Ensuring you have a wide and varied diet is the best way to ensure you get all the nutrients you need for optimal physical and mental health.

    Evangeline Mantzioris, Program Director of Nutrition and Food Sciences, Accredited Practising Dietitian, Adelaide University

    This article is republished from The Conversation under a Creative Commons license. Read the original article.

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  • Accessing the Healing Power of the Vagus Nerve – by Dr. Stanley Rosenberg

    10almonds is reader-supported. We may, at no cost to you, receive a portion of sales if you purchase a product through a link in this article.

    There are a lot of books out there about using vagus nerve stimulation to improve various aspects of one’s mental and physical health, but often they boil down to “massage this and relax”.

    In this case, the book makes heavy use of the ideas described in a book we’ve reviewed previously: The Polyvagal Theory – by Dr. Stephen Porges

    That book is considered the book on this topic, so… Why read this one when that one is right there?

    The main reason you might want to read this book rather than that one, is that that one’s a very dense and technical 386 pages, whereas this one’s at the heavy-end-of-pop-science, and 296 pages. This distinction makes it a lot easier for the layperson to read—the other, while published for the public, was very clearly written for academics.

    A second reason you might want to read this book rather than that one is that this one is written with practical intent; while Dr. Porges’ book was focused on “how this works”, Dr. Rosenberg’s book is focused on “how to use this to achieve specific, practical ends”.

    As to what those are: the list of things the author claims these techniques will cure is too long to go into each item here, but we will say that it doesn’t look to us like the evidence is here for all of these claims. In many cases the author relies on anecdotal case studies, and in equally many (often the same) cases, it might be fairer to say that the techniques support the body’s natural processes rather than that it, say, will treat a hernia or fix bipolar disorder. Maybe one day evidence will be found to demonstrate that these exercises can indeed do those things, but it’s not today.

    Bottom line: in this reviewer’s opinion, the author makes some overly bold claims about the results one can expect, but that doesn’t take away from the fact that this is still an excellent practical guide to vagus nerve stimulation, and in many ways a much more accessible introduction to polyvagal theory than Dr. Porges’ magnum opus, while still being head and shoulders above most books about the vagus nerve.

    Click here to check out Accessing the Healing Power of the Vagus Nerve, and access the healing power of the vagus nerve!

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