Skincare “Scams” That Are Actually Very Recommendable

Dr. Andrea Suarez explains why some things got a bad reputation despite, actually, working if used correctly:

Looking past the surface

What Dr. Suarez wants us to know is that some products widely labelled as skincare “scams” can be genuinely useful when their biology, limits, and realistic outcomes are understood.

As for why they sometimes get labelled as scams, she blames overpromising marketing claims, misunderstood skin biology, and unrealistic expectations about speed and magnitude of results. Which is a pity, because bold hype can boost short-term sales (which is why it’s used), but often damages long-term trust once results fail to match the promises.

So, with that in mind:

• Collagen creams: no, collagen molecules do not penetrate to rebuild collagen, but they act as humectants that improve hydration, smoothness, plumpness, comfort, and symptoms such as dryness and tightness.
• Red and near-infrared light: photobiomodulation can improve mitochondrial activity, blood flow, and inflammation, leading to modest gains in fine lines, texture, collagen density, acne inflammation, and hair thickness with consistent use. However, at-home devices require ongoing use, and deliver gradual rather than dramatic changes.
• Retinoids : these are among the most studied dermatologic ingredients, retinoids improve collagen production, wrinkles, pigmentation, texture, and treat conditions such as acne and melasma. However, many people quit due to delayed results, irritation, dryness, and poor introduction strategies rather than any actual lack of efficacy.
• Niacinamide : evidence supports improvements in discoloration, moisturization, redness, oil control, and glycation-related yellowing. However, overuse and stacking across multiple products, especially at high percentages above the 2–5% studied range, are likely to drive irritation and backlash.
• Silicone tape: silicone scar sheets are evidence-based for improving raised scar thickness, texture, redness, and discomfort by reducing transepidermal water loss. However, facial taping does not replace neuromodulators or treat dynamic wrinkles, even though temporary softening from moisturization can occur.

Red flags to watch out for: instant or permanent claims without clear science for it, vague buzzwords like “medical grade” without context, and no discussion of limitations or who should avoid the product.

Green flags to watch out for: modest claims, emphasis on gradual improvement, clear limitations, and honest discussion of who benefits and who does not.

For more on all of this, enjoy:

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The Evidence-Based Skincare That Beats Product-Specific Hype

Take care!