Not All Peptides Are Equal (So, Which Are Worth the Hype?)

Dr. Shereene Idriss, dermatologist, explains:

Peptides to peptides

Peptides are short chains of amino acids that (amongst other functions) act as messengers to your cells, telling them to do specific things like boost collagen, calm inflammation, or brighten skin.

These include:

• Signal peptides: stimulate collagen and elastin (e.g. matrixyl, palmitoyl pentapeptide).
• Carrier peptides: deliver metals like copper or manganese to aid repair.
• Enzyme-inhibiting peptides: slow down collagen/elastin breakdown (e.g. tripeptide-1).
• Neurotransmitter-inhibiting peptides: reduce muscle activity to soften expression lines (e.g. argireline/acetyl hexapeptide-8).
• Specialty peptides: target brightening (e.g. hexapeptide-2) or barrier repair.

Of those, Dr. Idriss says that these ones are worth the hype (and why):

• Signal peptides like matrixyl: tried-and-true for firmness and plumpness.
• Copper peptides: aid repair and overall skin health.
• Argireline: softer alternative to Botox for fine lines.
• Hexapeptide-2: gentle brightening when paired with vitamin C.

In contrast, she recommends against anything with vague “peptide blends” on labels with no clear function.

In short, she advises that while peptides are not miracle fixes, they can be powerful if chosen wisely and used consistently. She further recommends that we always ask which peptide and what’s the goal—whether it’s collagen support, wrinkle softening, brightening, barrier repair, or something else.

For more on all of this plus some product-specific suggestions, enjoy:

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Take care!