The “Barrier-First” Way to Layer Skincare in Winter

Dr. Shereene Idris, dermatologist, explains:

Layer up

We’re not sure why she called this the “barrier-first” way, as the barrier does appear to be last (maybe she meant it in the “it’s most important” way, or maybe she was referring to prioritizing the skin barrier; either are possible with the things she said, and neither are confirmed as being the reason).

In any case, the advice itself is sound:

Her advice is to think of skincare like winter clothing—start with the thinnest layers and build up only as needed, rather than using every possible layer by default.

Know the five hydration categories: lightweight mists, hydrating essences or toners, serums, moisturizers, and rich creams or occlusives, with the understanding that you do not necessarily need a product from every category (and in fact, you almost certainly don’t).

With that in mind, pick and mix from the following as appropriate, and/but in this order:

1. Hydrating mist: adds surface water but must always be sealed with subsequent layers, otherwise evaporation can worsen dryness—similar to repeatedly licking dry lips.
2. Hydrating essence or toner: choose products explicitly formulated to hydrate rather than exfoliate, and apply with light pressure to help cushion skin and improve receptivity to treatments.
3. Serum: a hydrating serum can be used alone, or you can choose a targeted treatment serum that also contains humectants, allowing hydration and correction to happen simultaneously.
4. Moisturizer: supports your skin barrier and comfort, with lighter options often working under sunscreen or makeup in the morning and richer textures becoming more appropriate as winter dryness increases.
5. Rich cream or occlusive: seals everything in overnight to reduce water loss, with zinc-based options offering additional anti-inflammatory or barrier-support benefits when skin is irritated.

It’s also worth noting that your skin type and environment determine how many steps you need, and routines should ebb and flow with climate changes rather than remain rigid.

For more on all of this, enjoy:

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Want to learn more?

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Take care!